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Author: mamaSarah

Merged:Baja kompos

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Post time 14-10-2009 09:13 AM | Show all posts
balik kerja semalam sempat gak berkebun sikit2... masa tengah gembur tanah.. tengok banyak tul anak2 cacing yang halus tuh... eeeiiiiiiiiiii... cepat2 gi amik sarung tangan.. tapi buat kerja tak selesa lah pulak...
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Post time 14-10-2009 10:01 AM | Show all posts
makan ubat cacing banyak2.......
ulam2 mematikan cacing...........
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Post time 14-10-2009 03:57 PM | Show all posts
Cacing yang bersifat parasit jer yang boleh dok dalam badan kita nie. Kalau takat cacing tanah tu comfirm tak masuk dalam badan kita. Cuma dalam tanah tu bukan satu jenis cacing jer yang ada. Yang lain tu mungkin akan masuk.

Tapi aku tak pernah pun pakai sarung tangan kalau berkebun nie. Lepas berkebun cuci tangan bersih-bersih.
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Post time 20-10-2009 12:10 PM | Show all posts
Vermikompos tingkat kesuburan tanahSumber : Jabatan Pertanian


Vermikompos kaya dengan nutrien yang sesuai untuk tanaman.

VERMIKOMPOS merupakan baja kompos yang terbentuk hasil daripada pemeliharaan cacing dalam kompos. Vermikompos mengandungi najis cacing yang bercampur dengan bahan-bahan organik yang mereput seperti jerami padi, rumput, dan lain-lain sisa bahan tanaman.
Vermikompos mengandungi pelbagai unsur nutrien yang sangat sesuai untuk tanaman.
Selain itu, ia juga membantu menguraikan sebatian kompleks kepada unsur yang boleh diambil oleh tanaman.

Cara membuat vermikompos
a. Bahan-bahan
i. Jerami padi atau sisa bahan pertanian yang telah reput atau separuh reput.
ii. Najis haiwan (tahi lembut) atau tahi ayam)
iii. Cacing merah (cacing kompos)
b. Cara membuat
i. Sediakan tapak kompos dan bangsal untuk membuat vermikompos bagi melindungi daripada hujan dan panas.
ii. Masukkan 300 kilogram (kg) jerami dan 100 kg tahi lembu ke dalam tapak kompos dan gaulkan.
iii. Masukkan empat kg cacing merah (lebih kurang 10,000 ekor) ke dalam campuran jerami dan tutup dengan jerami atau guni
iv. Lakukan penyiraman setiap dua hari sekali supaya campuran sentiasa dalam keadaan lembap.
v. Pemantauan dan pengurusan yang sempurna hendaklah dilakukan bagi memastikan cacing berada dalam keadaan selesa dan tidak diganggu oleh musuh-musuh seperti tikus, semut dan burung.
vi. Hasil vermikompos boleh diambil dalam masa sebulan.

Pengutipan hasil
Vermikompos boleh dituai selepas tiga atau mepat bulan. Vermikompos yang terhasil diasingkan dengan mengumpulkannya dalam satu bahagian dan bahan sisa tanaman bari ditempatkan di sebelahnya.
Cacing-cacing akan berpindah dengan sendirinya ke bahan sisa tanaman baru. Vermikompos yang telah diasingkan ditapis sebelum dibungkus dan dijual atau digunakan.

Kebaikan vermikompos
i. Memperbaiki struktur tanah
ii. Memperbaiki kandungan biologi tanah dengan penambahbaikan mikrorganisma, hormon dan juga enzim.
iii. Membekalkan unsur-unsur yang diperlukan untuk pertumbuhan pokok.
vi. Mengandungi humus yang berguna untuk meningkatkan kesuburan tanah.

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Post time 20-10-2009 12:32 PM | Show all posts
banyak syarikat yg kononnya buat busnes bela cacing dah kantoi.....rupanya cacing jadi cover-up aje.....kompeni amik deposit duit....mcm pak Man telo....tapi kali ni cacing telo kaedahnya,.....ramai yg dah jadi mangsa....berhati hati kpd siapa yg belum kena....
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Post time 20-10-2009 12:55 PM | Show all posts
165# coniferous

betul tuh.. sama gak ngan bisnes ketam nipah.. uish.. dorang nih memang jenis kapur duit jerk.. dulu ada satu kompeni bukak kursus ternak cacing... pastuh dia leh sediakan starter.. tapi masa melawat tempat tuh.. sekor cacing pun takder... skang nih dah tutup dah.. rupa rupanya dah kapur duit orang ribu riban.... sib baik tak sempat nak join... kalo tak menangis lah.......
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Post time 20-10-2009 09:57 PM | Show all posts
banyak syarikat yg kononnya buat busnes bela cacing dah kantoi.....rupanya cacing jadi cover-up aje.....kompeni amik deposit duit....mcm pak Man telo....tapi kali ni cacing telo kaedahnya,.....ramai y ...
coniferous Post at 20-10-2009 12:32


'Kaya' yang sementara...
Camner nak 'berkat' hidup kalau kapur duit orang lain....
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Post time 20-10-2009 10:15 PM | Show all posts
skrg ni kalau jumpa cacing tanah yg keras2 tu terutamanya (yg lembik pun)......
memang confirm kena cekup masuk lam pasu roses..........
he....he....he.....pasu2 kesayangan tu..........
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Post time 21-10-2009 04:34 PM | Show all posts
Kursus ternak cacing tu mengarut jerk,....depa bukan pandai bela cacing pun, penipu...habis duit org kena kapo,.......Kesian kan....bila mintak tunjuk ladang cacing nya depa tak dapat tunjuk pun............Hati hati untuk mereka yg belum terkena........baik amik cacing kat tanah atau taik lembu lagi puas hati tak payah bayar duit pun.............
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Post time 22-10-2009 10:44 AM | Show all posts
168# cdini

Punyalah bahlulnya i masa dulu2...kalau korek tanah dalam pasu...nampak ada cacing...scoop...buang...geli konon...now baru terhegeh2 nak baja cacinglah...nak tahi cacinglah...yelah...masa tu belum fofular pasal cacing2 ni sebagai nutrients kat tanaman......
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Post time 22-10-2009 11:14 AM | Show all posts
168# cdini

memang dah lama buat cenggini.. hari tuh pokok dalam pasu mati masa balik raya temphhari.. masa gemburkan tanah dalam pasu sebab nak tanam pokok lain.. umak aih... banyakneyr cacing kat dalam tuh... bila kita tabur benih.,. besok nampak tahi2 cacing... tu yang buat tanaman subur sebab cacing nih tolong gemburkan tanah sekali....
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Post time 2-11-2009 02:41 PM | Show all posts
kandungan NPK dalam vermicompos amat rendah dan kalau hanya bergantung padanya untuk sayuran memang tak cukup. Tapi vermicast ada mengandungi bahan repellent (dari lendir pada cacing) yang menghalang pertumbuhan fungus.

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Post time 3-11-2009 10:38 PM | Show all posts
Post Last Edit by em2 at 4-11-2009 20:29

Sy punya compost tiada sekor cacing pun! heran...tp semua telah diuraikan dengan baiknya, bau x busuk sangat ade bau tanah...tp yg seramnya terdapat banyak ulat seperti rupa macam ulat yg dijual di kedai aquarium (Hermetia illucens) ,

Hermetia illucens


compost bin - rupanya lebih kurang pic nie


Perlukah sy bakar dulu ataupun sterilize compost nie sebelum digunakan?

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Post time 3-11-2009 11:47 PM | Show all posts
Post Last Edit by em2 at 3-11-2009 23:49

Saya da jumpa solution.....

Do-it-yourself BSF bucket bio-composter                                       


A no-frills approachIntroducing the Black Soldier Fly Bucket Bio-composter v1.1, aminimalistic approach to black soldier fly composting. Despite it’slimitations I hope this simple DIY composter will inspire people to trytheir hand at attracting and culturing BSF grubs.
Each bucket will vary but the basic concept is the same.Vent Holes

I used a 1/2 inch flat drill bit for the vents, but a larger hole isacceptable. Smaller might work but the vent holes are the primaryentrance for the adult BSF and they might have difficulty with lessthan that. The pilot holes were drilled level with the bottom of theraised band that is near the top of the bucket. I put the vents therefor two reasons. 1) By placing them close to this “overhang” there issome protection from rain entering the bucket 2) The female BSF will beattracted to the scent coming from the vents and the protected spacescreated by the reinforced rim will present them with a good egg layingsite. I expect most of the eggs to be laid in these protected spaces.
Go slowly when drilling or you may tear up the overhang. I drilled very slowly and still chewed it up a little.
On my particular bucket the reinforced rim was 3 to 4 inches belowthe top of the bucket, but it’s higher up on some buckets. Higher isbetter if you have a choice because as we all know, hot air rises. Toexhaust the dead space above my vents I drilled the singe hole that you can see in the photo of the finished composter.
Drainage

This composter doesn’t utilize acontinuous drain system. There is a drain hole on the side of thebucket and periodically you’ll need to tilt the bucket and let theaccumulated liquids drain out. I plugged mine with a cork.

I picked a place about 3-4 inches from thebottom so that when tilted all but a small amount of liquid will drainout. The bucket biocomposter can be placed at an angle in the openingof another 5 gallon bucket for draining. Handle this liquid or “tea”carefully and sanitize your hands afterward. The tea can be used asfertilizer, but I don’t have experience with that so you’ll need to doyour own research and testing.

Coconut Coir Liner


(The photos above are from version 1.0. In the newer version the drain hole is placed lower.)

Coir is made from the outer husks ofcoconuts and is commonly used for lining wire planters and hangingbaskets. I bought a flat piece at a garden shop about 1 inch thick andcut 3 disc shapes to fit the bucket. Coir is also available in looseform. I don’t think it matters which type you use, and I’m guessingthat about 3 inches of total material should work. Be careful if youcut it because it’s pretty tough. I set mine on a thick piece ofStyrofoam and “sawed” through it with a utility knife. I feel fortunateto have completed the task with all ten digits still intact.

The purpose of the coir liner is toprovide a space for liquid to accumulate without flooding the foodscraps that you’re composting. The BSF grubs cannot process the scrapswell if they’re submerged, and the liquid creates an anaerobicenvironment (no air) that encourages the growth of bad bacteria. BSFgrubs create an aerobic environment (with air) through the churningaction that happens when they feed. By maintaining aerobic conditionsyou will avoid imbalances that are easily recognized by offensiveodors. A balanced BSF colony smells like wet straw plus whatever foodyou’ve added recently.

The Lid


You can snap the lid into place on yourbucket composter but I don’t want to go through that process every timeI open and close the unit. A simple solution is to just set the lid ontop without pressing down and then secure it with small bungee cords asyou can see in the photo. My dog keeps raccoons and other scavengersaway so usually I don’t even use the bungees. Of course if you have adog it might be the worst scavenger of all.

The knob serves a more important functionthan the obvious one. I’ve observed BSF females laying eggs on the topof the lid on several occasions and by using the knob you can avoidcrushing the fragile eggs. It won’t be the primary area for egg layingbut there’s no good reason to crush good BSF eggs and the knob iseasier to handle anyway.

Avoiding Ants


In the photo above I’m using a barriercreated by setting the composter in a pan of water to prevent ants frominvading the contents. You can also set the bucket on a stand like astool and treat the legs to repel ants. Similarly you could suspend thebucket on a chain or rope.

One issue I didn’t consider with the waterpan is that the black soldier fly grubs that migrate out of the bucketmay drown. A possible solution is to put the bucket in a dry pan thatin turn sits in a larger pan with water.

The process of composting

I’ll go into detail about using the bucketcomposter on a separate page and I will add a link here when it’sready. The basic concepts will be the same as using a BioPod, just on asmaller scale and with a few addtional steps. During hot weather keepthe bucket in full shade, don’t overfeed, and if it begins to smell badyou’re doing something wrong. I expect I’ll be able to process about a half pound (.25kg) of foodscraps with this unit each day, or maybe a little more. This composterisn’t designed for high effeciency or high volume, it’s designed as anintroduction to bio-composting with black soldier fly grubs (Hermetiaillucens). If you enjoy this you’ll probably want to graduate to aBioPod or a more elaborate DIY system. On the other hand you might findthat this bucket design is all you need…

Harvesting Grubs
To harvest the mature BSF grubs you will need to periodically leavethe bucket in a tilted position. Alternatively you could mist theinside walls of the bucket and set the unit in a larger container witha layer of sawdust (not pressure treated), peat, or some other drybedding material. The moisture on the walls will allow the grubs toclimb vertically, exit via the vent holes, and onto the beddingmaterial. Assuming the bedding remains dry the grubs will not be ableto escape the catch pan.

source http://blacksoldierflyblog.com/

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Post time 4-11-2009 07:56 AM | Show all posts
Post Last Edit by em2 at 3-11-2009 23:43

Sy punya compost tiada sekor cacing pun! heran...tp semua telah diuraikan dengan baiknya, bau x busuk sangat ade bau tanah...tp yg seramnya terdapat banyak  ...
em2 Post at 3-11-2009 22:38


Penguraian sisa tanaman tidak semestinya memerlukan cacing sahaja. Cacing compost hanyalah salah satu cara. Pengunaan EM, IMO, BIM juga salah satu cara menguraian compost.

Kompos anda mungkin mengunakan salah satu cara tersebut.

Pembakaran kompos sebelum digunakan adalah tidak digalakan kerana ia akan membunuh mikro berguna dalam compost anda.

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Post time 4-11-2009 08:17 PM | Show all posts
175# elastic

owh..elastic terima kasih atas penerangan.
sy penah try buat folia spray gunakan air beras kemudian diperam selama3-4 hari. Selepas itu dicampurkan dgn susu tepung serta gula perang.Bagaimana pula dgn IMO dan BIM?
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Post time 5-11-2009 08:52 AM | Show all posts
176# em2

Baja foliar ni hanya digunakan secara spray saja ye?...maknanya lepas campurkan ketiga2 bahan tadi tu...tak payah peram lagi...boleh terus je dispray pada pokok2?...thanks...
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Post time 5-11-2009 09:54 AM | Show all posts
IMO tu guna nasi sejuk.

Sediakan satu besen 1/3 penuh dengan tanah. Letak nasi sejuk dan tutup dengan daun buluh. Biarkan 3 hari. Dia akan diselaputi fungus berwarna putih. - dinamakan IMO1

Timbang berat nasi berkulat tadi dan campurkan gula merah dengan berat sama. Gaul sebati dan biarkan 5 hari - IMO2

Satu sudu IMO 2 dicampurkan dengan 10kg dedak padi dan 2 liter air beras yang diperam 3 hari. Gaul sebati dan tutup dengan kain/daun. Peram 3 hari - IMO3

Campurkan 1 bahagian IMO 3 dan 1 bahagian tanah dengan kelembapan
65%. Tutup dengan guni/daun dan dibiarkan 3 - 5 hari - IMO 4.

Campurkan IMO 4 + tahi ayam kadar 1:10 dengan kelembapan 65%. Balikkan
selepas seminggu.

Selepas dua minggu boleh digunakan sebagai IMO 5 dengan kadar 2 - 3 tan/ha.

Ia adalah sejenis baja organik buatan sendiri. Taik ayam tadi kalau dicampur dengan IMO4, takkan menjadi berbau busuk untuk digunakan.

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Post time 5-11-2009 10:52 AM | Show all posts
Post Last Edit by em2 at 5-11-2009 10:56
176# em2

Baja foliar ni hanya digunakan secara spray saja ye?...maknanya lepas campurkan ketiga2 bahan tadi tu...tak payah peram lagi...boleh terus je dispray pada pokok2?...thanks...
shiina Post at 5-11-2009 08:52

boleh dicampur bersama compost atau ternakan. peram dahulu air beras dgn mengunakan air yg bebas klorin, lepas 4-5 hari baru dicampur dgn susu tepung atau susu segar serta gula perang dan diperam lagi selama 4-5 hari. Lemak, karbohidrat, protien akan terapung meninggalkan cecair berwarna kuning iaitu serum(LAS) yg mana mengandungi lactic acid bacteria (LAB). Lemak, karbohidrat, protien beku tadi boleh juga dicampurkan dengan compost ataupun dicampur dalam makanan ternakan. Sebelum shiina gunakan serum ini perlulah dicairkan dgn nisbah campuran 1 bahagian serum 20 bahagian air bebas klorin (1:20). Barulah boleh digunakan secara sembur ataupun dibuat air siraman pada pokok2.

*LAS - lactic acid serum

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Post time 5-11-2009 10:54 AM | Show all posts
178# elastic

nice info elastic..
terima kasih
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